The Painswick Hotel
Cotswolds
by Sarah Shuckburgh
The Painswick Hotel is a comfortable country house hotel in
one of the most picturesque Cotswold villages.
Locals remember a time when this 18th century Palladian
rectory was almost derelict, and the vicar lived in a couple
of dark, draughty rooms upstairs. Now the house has been
completely restored, with a panelled dining room, a sunny
first-floor drawing room, a shady veranda overlooking the
garden, and - with logs blazing all winter - the Verey
drawing room, named after the last resident vicar. The bar's
tiled floor and ornate gilded ceiling evoke its original
function as
a private chapel, built by a 19th century vicar for his
wealthy Catholic wife - a Miss Perrins, of Lee and Perrins
Worcestershire sauce.
Each of the 19 bedrooms is different. One of several with a
four-poster bed is Room 10, a striking attic room with bold
blue walls and arts and crafts furniture. For a romantic
bath, choose Room 1, and recline next to your partner, head
to tail in two tubs with views through the window of rolling
hills.
You can take over the whole hotel for a wedding or a family
reunion, but even as a regular guest, the owners of the
hotel, Gareth and Helen Pugh, will make you feel as if you
are staying with friends. They have two small sons of their
own, and the hotel welcomes children of all ages. Baths come
with plastic ducks, there's a toy box in the library and
Scrabble in every bedroom. The Pughs provide a
baby-listening service, and at Sunday lunch, children are
charged £4 plus £1 for each year of their age.
Known as the Queen of the Cotswolds, Painswick is an
enchanting village of narrow, winding streets and
honey-coloured stone houses. The medieval church is
surrounded by 99 clipped yew trees - legend has it that
whenever a 100th tree is planted, the devil takes it.
This is the least touristy part of the Cotswolds, with
ancient dry stone walls and tangled hedgerows, clusters of
rose-covered stone cottages, lush meadows, and sheep grazing
peacefully in tiny fields. Take the footpath to Slad, made
famous by Laurie Lee's "Cider With Rosie", or follow the
Cotswold Way up to Painswick beacon, for views over seven
counties. The Southern Cotswolds are wonderful for walking -
and you'll hardly meet a soul. Within easy reach by car are
Broadway, Bourton on the Water, the Slaughters, Stow on the
Wold, and the spa towns of Cheltenham and Bath.
First published by Travel Intelligence Ltd
©SarahShuckburgh |
