Bears and Giant Redwoods on the road to
Mendocino
Mendocino, Northern California
by Sarah Shuckburgh
We woke to the honking barks of sea-lions and the smell
of coffee and freshly baked muffins. Pale mist drifted in
from the ocean, revealing patches of blue sky and glinting
green-grey waves. We had to get dressed in a hurry -
breakfast at the cliff-top Lost Whale Inn is served at 8.30
sharp, and we didn’t want to miss the steaming fruit
cobbler.
After driving for ten days in northern California’s
scorching hinterland, my husband and I welcomed the clouds,
fog and soothing chill of this rugged coastline. Trinity
county is not the place for sun-bathing or swimming. The
ocean is cold, grey and dangerous, with strong currents,
sudden underwater hollows, and rogue waves which knock you
off your feet. Banks of mist blot out views, and bring eerie
silence. But this sparsely populated, top-left-hand corner
of California offers a unique mix of beauty, tranquillity,
culture, comfort - and park trails.
Until two weeks ago, I assumed that a trail through a park
meant following Princess Diana arrows through Kensington
Gardens, but trails and parks mean something different in
America. Northern California’s parks preserve some of the
world’s most spectacular and unspoilt landscapes, and hikers
share the wilderness paths with mountain lions and bears.
The mist lifted as we drove to Patrick’s Point State Park,
near Trinidad - a dramatic area of coastal bluffs and
headlands, ancient redwood forest, and sheltered meadows
grazed by herds of elk. We strode out to Wedding Point, a
bleak, beautiful promontory surrounded by churning ocean. On
jutting rocks beneath us, auburn-coated sea-lions flopped
lazily, as squawking gulls circled overhead, and harbour
seals bobbed in the surf. Above the tideline, turkey
vultures pecked greedily at a sea-lion corpse. For
generations of Yurok Native Americans, this coast provided
such plentiful food that a unique social system developed,
with luxuries and privileges. In a hazy forest clearing, we
came upon a traditional Yurok village, reconstructed from
hand-hewn redwood planks. A sea-faring canoe, hollowed from
a single redwood trunk, took two men a year to make, using
elk antlers. We squeezed through a small circular entrance
to a dark, earth-floored family house, and pondered the
relativity of luxury and privilege.
At the Humboldt Lagoons State Park, sky, lake and beach were
washed in shades of palest grey, like an under-exposed,
blurred photograph. We trudged along a narrow spit of grey
shingle dotted with cornflowers, daisies and clumps of
silvery grass shivering in the breeze. To our left, pelicans
and ospreys glided over the freshwater lagoon, its pale
ripples smudging into the grey-green of distant misty banks.
To our right, grey waves thundered on to the pebbles,
discarding hunks of knarled driftwood, smoothed by the
waves, and bleached as pale as bone.
Until 1850, this foggy coast was forested with two million
acres of redwoods. These enormous trees grow nowhere else in
the world and can live for 2000 years - but today only 3% of
the original old-growth trees are left. We drove to the
Redwoods National Park, where ancient trees grow to record
heights on rich alluvial soil. Leaving the car, we followed
sun-dappled trails between giant trunks, the rust-coloured
bark deeply fissured, as if hung with lengths of twisted
rope. A hundred yards up, pale green feathery leaves formed
a translucent canopy. At our feet, bright yellow banana
slugs, like slimy peeled bananas, inched through the leaf
litter.
California’s history is short but dramatic - until 1846, it
was part of Mexico. Within weeks of becoming the 31st state
of the Union, gold had been discovered, and logging began.
Today, the Californian economy is the fifth richest in the
world - but the state coffers are empty, and park rangers
are worried about funding. “The ‘Governator’ wants to sell
off our state parks”, they told us.
The next day, we drove south, passing redwoods with
burnt-out trunks which you can drive through, or fitted with
doors and windows. In the Humboldt Redwood State Park, a
narrow Avenue of the Giants forms a 32-mile leafy tunnel.
Chipmunks scampered across the road as we stopped to walk
into sunny glades of ferns and fallen logs. The forest
seemed to soak up sound, but the silence was broken by
ominous creaks as the shallow-rooted trunks swayed with the
breeze.
Fog was wafting in as we followed Highway 1 back to the
ocean. We caught brief glimpses of grey waves and craggy
headlands as we wiggled slowly round narrow hairpin bends to
the quaint little town of Mendocino. We were staying in the
Joshua Grindle Inn, a whitewashed clapboard farmhouse built
in 1879 - and today an elegant and luxurious B&B. As luck
would have it, we arrived during Mendocino’s annual music
festival. After an early supper of red snapper and mash, we
joined locals in a marquee on the headland, and listened to
Dvorak’s New World symphony as wind rustled the canvas, and
darkness fell.
Mendocino’s headlands of tangled, shoulder-high wild
flowers, tiny coves and jagged cliffs, form another state
park. The next morning, as the mist lifted, birders were
staring through long lenses at rare murrelets - robin-sized
seabirds which nest in ancient inland forests. Squadrons of
pelicans flew in, joining hundreds of other birds on small
rocky islands. At my feet, the comical face of a gopher
popped out of its grassy hole and we peered at each other in
surprise.
At midday, we hired a canoe and paddled, with the tide, up
Mendocino’s peaceful Big River - a totally undeveloped
estuary eight miles long, and a state park since 2002. We
floated between salt-marsh wetlands and rocky, forested
hillsides, as vultures wheeled overhead and dozens of
smaller birds darted across the water. We ate our picnic
lunch, and when the tide turned, drifted blissfully
downstream towards the sandy beach.
We had time to visit one more park. Jughandle, just north of
Mendocino, protects a unique ecological staircase formed
over 500,000 years as the sea-level changed. Next to some
complicated geological diagrams, an amusing notice warned:
‘If you meet a mountain lion, Don’t Run; Look Aggressive;
Fight Back Vigorously‘. We followed an undulating three-mile
trail from coastal flower meadows, through windswept scrub,
down to a sheltered creek with ferns and deciduous woodland,
and on through relatively youthful redwood trees - only a
century old and 100 feet tall - to a strange pygmy forest of
stunted bonzai-style pines. As we turned for home, shafts of
late afternoon sunlight filtered between slender trunks of
the young redwoods. It was mesmerisingly beautiful and
eerily silent, apart from the thud of our feet on the sandy
path.
A creak startled me. Was a ‘widow-maker’ branch about to
fall? Were mountain lions watching us? What about
rattlesnakes?
Suddenly, on the track 10 feet ahead of us, we saw a bear.
It stared at us. We stared back. My heart thumping, I wished
I’d read the notice-board more carefully. Should we run or
stand still? Look aggressive or polite? Fight vigorously or
act dead? Before I could decide, the bear stepped gracefully
off the trail. We watched its glossy black back glide behind
a fallen redwood trunk, and it was gone.
That evening the choir sang Vivaldi in the big white tent.
In the interval we watched the sun fall from a pink sky into
the sea, as waves splashed on to the headlands. Later, we
walked back to the inn through deserted, dimly-lit roads, as
frogs croaked loudly from beneath a wooden water tower. The
sky was clear, inky black and scattered with stars - and
somewhere in the darkness was our bear, following a park
trail through the redwoods.
First published by the Telegraph
©SarahShuckburgh |